tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47870864730165222872024-02-19T15:44:12.885-08:00imediat dureazălife is short, so take your time
"My imagined edens have no words. Images, unlike words, can speak of silence without breaking it... The subject's eyes are closed in the images of my books of eden... Only when the eyes are looking inward can you see the edens within." ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.comBlogger65125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-46416888830398521012015-09-19T15:04:00.000-07:002016-04-18T05:05:50.295-07:00ziua 565 Penang: gusturi și obiceiuriDacă ajungi in Penang, să mănânci. Fără ezitare, fără regrete. Încearcă să încerci tot, oricum nu vei reuși. Slăbești tu după ce pleci.<br />
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Malaysia stă bine la multe capitole, ai ce face și ai ce vedea. Dar parcă cel mai bine din toate se situează la capitolul mâncare. În primul rând datorită poziționării geografice și a multitudinii de neamuri ce conviețuiesc și gătesc laolată.<br />
Insula Penangului nu face nici pe departe excepție. Indienii sunt la ei acasă, reprezentând o treime din populație, chinezii sunt și ei foarte bine așezați și, printre malezienii get-beget vei afla o destui care sunt pasionați și de alte bucătării: japoneză, vietnameză, thai, europeană sau de fuziune. Le-am aflat pe toate, de cele mai multe ori la superlativul absolut.<br />
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De la rafinamentul simplu și desăvârșit al bucătăriei <i>nonya</i> (sau <i>peranakan</i>, descendenții primilor chinezi ce s-au stabilit in Malay) la catifelările de cașmir ale <i>naan</i>-ului indian cu fructe de pădure.<br />
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De la creveții pane asortați cu fructe exotice la sashimi proaspăt-proaspăt, și perfect-perfect echilibrat.<br />
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De la tacos adaptați la legumele și mirodeniile locului la un fondue de durian (fructul-rege al Malaysiei) pe care nu il vom uita cu una-cu două. Mai ales că a fost mare cum il vezi ceva mai jos.<br />
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Mda, îmi place să mănânc. Îmi place să încerc gusturi noi și tradiții vechi. Și da, îmi place să mă joc cu mâncarea. Asta e.<br />
Am avut treabă în Penang.<br />
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Mai poți? Mai avem, nici nu am atacat subiectul <i>street-food</i>, unul definitoriu pentru Penang. Iar locala <i>laksa</i> este oficial în topul primelor 10 cele mai rafinate feluri de mâncare din lume.</div>
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-28125579955569448732015-09-15T17:08:00.000-07:002016-04-15T17:54:36.048-07:00ziua 562 Penang: după-amiază pe Love Lane<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-67386925020118397062015-09-10T16:35:00.000-07:002016-04-16T03:45:35.914-07:00ziua 560 Penang: zidurile din George Town<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-362940687648576922015-07-23T09:57:00.002-07:002015-07-25T12:46:02.533-07:00ziua 493, Oaxaca, pe dinăuntruOaxaca...Oaxaca este una dintre cele mai pitorești regiuni ale Mexicului, cu aproape 600 de municipalități dintre care 418 sunt autonome din punct de vedere juridic și administrativ, încă de pe vremea spaniolilor conquistadores. Sunt guvernate de <a href="http://usos%20y%20costumbres/">usos y costumbres</a>, adică sisteme bazate încă pe legile și cutumele tribale, ancestrale. <br />
Sunt sigur că pentru autorități este un <i>major pain in the ass</i>. <br />
Dar pentru tine, vizitatorul pierdut pe străzile orașului, asta înseamnă incredibil de multe.<span style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"></span>
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Înseamnă spectaculoase puneri în comun,</div>
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istorii zbuciumate, în tăcute mânăstiri,</div>
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înseamnă tradiții păstrate, vii și adevărate,</div>
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un vibe aparte în miezul nopții,</div>
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cald dar impozant când vrea,</div>
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un altul, în miezul zilei,</div>
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plin de viața și freamăt,</div>
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înseamnă trecut clasic și european,</div>
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prezent autentic și zapotec,</div>
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o bucătarie celebră în toată lumea, unică până și pentru mexicani,</div>
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înseamnă străzi precum grădinile botanice,</div>
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grădini botanice precum deșertul,</div>
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deși în mijlocul orașului din mijlocul munților,</div>
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și o lumină fantastică, dramatică,</div>
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care te face să te întrebi non stop cine este<i> alien</i> aici: tu, sau tot ce te-nconjoară?</div>
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0Oaxaca, Oaxaca, Mexico17.0594169 -96.721621916.9379909 -96.8829834 17.1808429 -96.5602604tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-63578615193117556272015-06-10T21:16:00.000-07:002015-06-10T21:35:00.597-07:00ziua 474, Riviera Maya dintotdeauna<br />
Te bate Cine-trebuie dacă pui piciorul in Mexic și nu faci cunoștință cu trecutul glorios al acestui colț de lume. Zapotecii, mayașii, aztecii și o puzderie de alte neamuri sunt încă prezente în zonă, și la propriu dar și sub forma vestigiilor cruțate la 1500 de spanioli sau dezgropate la 1900 de arheologi. Le-am făcut câte o vizită (sau mai multe) fiecărui neam în parte, dar fii pe pace, nu am să te plictisesc cu toate. Despre șarpele pe care soarele îl desenează fix la echinox pe marea piramidă de la Chichen Itza (pe care americanii crescuți la Mac se mai ambiționează încă să o numeasca <i>the chicken place</i>) poți citi și singur <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chichen_Itza" target="_blank">aici</a>.<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">Scăldată de Marea Caraibelor, Riviera Maya, centrul marii civilizații distruse in secolul XVI de către simpaticii conquistadores, păstrează încă multe dintre semnele gloriei demult apuse. Le vezi la tot pasul, de </span>la felurile de mâncare la oamenii care arată și vorbesc ca in <i>Apocalypto</i> lui Mel Gibson, de <span style="text-align: start;">la indicatoarele rutiere (pe care dacă le poți citi nu le vei putea pronunța) la vestigiile din Tulum, Uxmal sau Xel Ha. Le vei găsi mayașilor templele, piețele, casele și piramidele presărate printre plaje, parcuri de distracție și shopping centers, stațiuni invadate de noii cuceritori vorbitori de rusă sau </span><i style="text-align: start;">ingles.</i></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Dar cum am mai spus-o și am s-o mai fac, Mexicul rămâne un mare sandwich de timp și așa se face că vei vedea, concomitent, și acele aspecte care au fost acolo încă dinaintea mayașilor sau a civillizațiilor pre-columbiene. Și care, cu puțin noroc, ne vor supraviețui și nouă: jungla, cenotele (acele lacuri marine adăpostite în general în peșteri) și mai ales miile de iguane care le-au văzut și le știu pe toate și-și permit să stea nonșalante la plajă printre generațiile de turiști ce vin și pleacă. Nu sunt cameleoni iguanele mele, dar dacă nu se mișcă ai nevoie de ochi antrenat să le deosebești de mediul înconjurător. Ai șapte în postarea asta, baftă la căutat!</span></div>
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PS: Nu, el nu e iguană, e un <i>perrito</i> întreprinzăreț din sat care și-a deshis o afacere ce ar trebui să fie profitabilă. Momentan așteaptă clienți.</div>
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-58743514088319176982015-03-09T01:39:00.000-07:002015-03-11T22:40:18.130-07:00ziua 460, celălalt San José del Cabo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Nu știu la alții cum e, dar eu am un anumit tip de peisaj pe care il caut in fiecare țară pe care aleg să o văd. Un clișeu, un deja-vu, o anume vibrație pe care am reținut-o de când am simțit-o prima dată. În ceea ce privește Mexicul, m-a atras mereu filmul cu deșert și vulturi și cactuși și pietre și...mi s-a dat!</div>
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Poate că alții ajunși în San Jose căutau panorame spectaculoase cu ocean și palmieri, străduțe idilice cu buticuri corecte sau plaje infinite. Și le-au aflat, sunt sigur. Orășelul-port le are pe toate, la superlativ.</div>
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Eu aveam să mă bucur cu adevărat abia la câțiva kilometri in spatele zonei (un pic prea) civilizate, unde mă aștepta, cuminte și impresionant, filmul meu, în cel mai mic detaliu. </div>
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Scorpioni nu am întâlnit, dar prezența lor era facultativă în scenariu, un coiot și-a făcut regulamentar apariția la apus dar nu a stat la pozat, liniștea a căzut cum trebuie.</div>
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Am adormit împăcat în seara aia.</div>
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com3San José del Cabo, Baja California Sur, Mexico23.0636562 -109.702437623.0052172 -109.7831186 23.1220952 -109.6217566tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-75805462390786844892015-03-03T01:14:00.001-08:002015-03-08T19:03:11.572-07:00ziua 457, Todos Santos, Welcome to the Hotel CaliforniaNici Todos Santos nu este de pe planeta noastră.<br />
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Este un sat 100% mexican-idilic-medieval-colonial-boem-tropical-de pescari, ce numară cu greu 5000 de locuitori și nici nu-i trebuiesc mai mulți. Este perfect exact așa cum este.<br />
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Marea lor majoritate sunt vampiri oricum, pentru că în arșița zilei străduțele cu aer de colonial sunt pustii și nu se vor anima decât după apus (când locuitorii ies toți odată din biserică și se înfing in <i>taqueria</i>). Nu-i bai, primul e un aspect care nu face decât să-i sporească lui dramatismul și ție senzația de tropicală <a href="http://ro.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gala_Galaction" target="_blank"><span style="color: white;">Moară a lui Călifar</span></a>. <i>Ba-i aici, ba nu-i de-aici</i>.<br />
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Așezările mici au un dar al lor de a păstra foarte la-ndemână urmele tuturor epocilor prin care au trecut. Ca un fel de sandwich cu timp.<br />
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Poziționat taman pe Tropicul Cancerului și scăldat de apele Pacificului, Todos Santos este însă celebru pe întreaga coastă datorită chitaristului de la REM, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Buck" target="_blank"><span style="color: white;">Peter Buck</span></a> care locuiește aici câteva luni pe an. Și organizează un festival foarte tare.<br />
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Al doilea motiv pentru care orășelul se poate mândri este Hotelul California, despre care se spune că a inspirat <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSvSsNSuVtk" target="_blank"><span style="color: white;">piesa</span></a> celor de la Eagles. Nu sunt în măsură să confirm oficial povestea. Dar o fac versurile și amenajările. Eu am doar dovezi in regulă că este <i>such a lovely place</i>. Un hotel boutique autentic, care te asteaptă cu un restaurant spectaculos, un aer mistic și brațe larg deschise. Așa cum este adevăratul Mexic. Poftim.<br />
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<i>Last thing I remember, I was</i></div>
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<i>Running for the door</i></div>
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<i>I had to find the passage back</i></div>
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<i>To the place I was before</i></div>
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<i>"Relax, " said the night man,</i></div>
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<i>"We are programmed to receive.</i></div>
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<i>You can check-out any time you like,</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>But you can never leave! "</i></div>
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, Mexico23.4463619 -110.2265100999999823.3880954 -110.30719109999998 23.504628399999998 -110.14582909999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-54728001937148745442015-02-20T00:24:00.000-08:002015-02-20T10:38:44.421-08:00ziua 451, Cabo San Lucas - balenele și prietenii lorDacă ajungi vreodată în sudul-sudului Californiei Baja, poposește in Cabo San Lucas și caută balenele. Nu mă refer la cele cu două picioare care se zbat printre Harleys si hamburgeri pe coastă, pe alea le găsești cu sau fără voie. Mai sunt unele, adevărate, în larg. Și pe drum vei descoperi o plajă.<br />
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Îmi este greu să spun că este cea mai frumoasă plajă pe care am văzut-o, de frica subiectivismului, meteahnă veche. Dar intră lejer intr-un top 3, mkay? Și cu siguranță este cea mai spectaculoasă cu care am avut plăcerea să mă întâlnesc.<br />
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Celebră pentru al său <i>El Arco</i>, plaja despre care îți povestesc nu este tehnic in San Lucas, pe continent. Dar dacă tocmești un barcagiu și suporți valurile un sfert de oră o poți afla, ascunsă bine între stânci. Și ce stânci...<br />
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Peisajul aproape selenar (cu excepția câtorva cactuși ambițioși și ai unor veri de-ai lor târîtori) nu-ți dă de bănuit că locul ar fi extrem de populat. Acordă-i însă puțintică răbdare și intri direct in <i>National Geographic</i> live.<br />
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Primii te înâmpină pelicanii și leii de mare. Și adevărul-adevărat este că, dacă ai baftă, te vor conduce personal până acolo. Este plaja lor de fapt. Dar o împart, neașteptat de bucuroși de oaspeți.<br />
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Pe toți ceilalți, alături de (looogic!) un apus superb am să te las să-i descoperi singur, așa cum am făcut și noi. Pe rând, pentru că nici aici nu se grăbește nimeni. În afară poate de pescărușii pe care i-am corupt cu Oreo. Știu. Dar nu ne-am putut abține.</div>
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com2Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, Mexico22.8905327 -109.9167370999999822.8320212 -109.99741809999998 22.949044200000003 -109.83605609999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-48274436115661846342015-02-06T01:58:00.001-08:002015-02-20T00:25:09.775-08:00ziua 445, cerul din La Paz<br />
La Paz este capitala uneia dintre cele mai frumoase provincii ale Mexicului, Baja California Sur, fâșia de deșert ce continuă continentul adânc în ocean. E o zonă populată masiv de americanii care și-au dat seama că anii de pensie sunt mai ieftini aici decât in Florida și vizitată periodic de balene și uragane. Subiect la care vom reveni.<br />
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Acum, fiecare om are fixurile și plăcerile lui. Eu unul mă dau în vânt după apusuri. Iți deosebesc cu ochii închiși unul din Golful Thailandei de unul din Bali, pe cel din Bucium de cel din Bruxelles și sunt recunoscător karmei că am trăit atât de multe. M-au învățat mai tot ce știu cu adevărat.<br />
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Aveam însă să descopăr in La Paz ceva ce a depășit clar aria de expertiză. De asta nici nu am să-ți arăt nimic altceva de aici. Pentru că nu a mai contat.<br />
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<i>NB: imaginile de mai jos nu s-au văzut cu Photoshop-ul, contrar uzanțelor. Am ales să le las așa cum m-au lăsat și ele pe mine. </i><br />
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com023040' La Paz, B.C.S., Mexico24.1426408 -110.3127531000000123.9107573 -110.6354766 24.374524299999997 -109.99002960000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-21621473469492370572015-01-26T00:59:00.002-08:002015-01-26T01:02:25.544-08:00ziua 438, Ciudad de Mexico și strania lui artăFrida Kahlo?<br />
Nu.<br />
Am căutat ceva mai puțin previzibil, turistic sau deja comercial. De asta am și plecat de acasă până la toată urma, nu?<br />
Și am aflat, repede și bine. Invitația mută a cititorului în palmă zărit printre uși m-a chemat irevocabl înăuntru.<br />
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<br />
<br />
Leonora Carrington?<br />
Da!<br />
Faptul că am aflat-o împărțindu-și acoperișul cu expoziția colectivă contemporană C<i>ancion de cuna para un nino muerto</i> ( sau <i>Cântec de leagăn pentru un copil mort</i>, pentru cei asemeni mie) nu te poate face imun la alchimiile ei.<br />
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Dimpotrivă, sentimentul straniu-frumos dintre copii și-a găsit suprarealistă completare într-unul frumos-straniu, între lucrările ei.<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">Dacă vrei să o afli, povestea ei, este despre curaj și viziune, Max Ernst și ospicii, romane, artă plastică, dragoste și Mexic, bineînțeles. </span><i style="text-align: start;">Quite inspirational</i><span style="text-align: start;">, merită să arunci </span><span style="color: white;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leonora_Carrington" style="text-align: start;" target="_blank">un ochi</a><span style="color: black; text-align: start;"><i>.</i></span></span><span style="text-align: start;"> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leonora Carrington 1917 - 2011</td></tr>
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P.S: Nu ar fi drept să plec fără să-ți arăt și minunatul rit de trecere dintre expoziții, semnat de </div>
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Maribel Portela. Pe ea o găsești pe <a href="https://www.facebook.com/MaribelPortelaEscultura"><span style="color: white;">Facebook</span></a>. Și merită un like.</div>
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0Mexico City, Federal District, Mexico19.4326077 -99.13320799999996818.9531097 -99.778654999999972 19.912105699999998 -98.487760999999963tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-3071227975225352302015-01-20T00:11:00.000-08:002015-01-20T00:15:16.421-08:00ziua 437, Ciudad de Mexico nouDacă ar mai avea încă 1,8 milioane de locuitori, Mexico City ar egala România la capitolul demografic. Și asta presupunând că ne-am avea toți compatrioții în acasă. Îți închipui așadar că diversitatea este unul dintre primele gusturi pe care le simți într-un oraș care a crescut atât pe înălțime cât și pe lățime, cam cât vezi cu ochiul și nu poți prinde în obiectiv.<br />
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Diferența de fus orar ne-a sticat de tot obiceiurile gata ciudate de acasă dar ne-a dat la schimb zile și cu apus și cu răsarit, fenomen relativ rar alminteri în existența mea. Cea de-a doua zi în marele oraș a fost astfel, dar contrastele au ținut plictisul departe de tot.<br />
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Am avut parte de bucurii triste și de proteste vesele, de viitor construit acum 80 de ani și de trecut ce se clădește în timp ce-ți scriu, de bulevarde ce concurează Champs Elysees și suburbii pe care nu le pot înca compara cu ceva. Elegantă și necăjită, bogată și săracă, dezinvoltă și conservatoare, metropola te aruncă nemilos de la Art Nouveau la ghetouri și de la lustragii (incredibil de mulți) la Starbucks (mai frecvente decât sucursalele BRD in România).<br />
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Singurul numitor comun al unei zile petrecute in Ciudad de Mexico? O poftă nebună de viață. După cum urmează:<br />
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P.S: Toate ca toate, dar probabil că mișcarea dezinvoltă din mijlocul străzii ți-a ridicat și ție o sprâncenă. Sunt cei de la <i>Movimiento de los 400 Pueblos</i>, care au bunul obicei de a organiza proteste ce nu pot fi trecute cu vederea, din motive evidente. In cazul de față, împotriva lui <b>Miguel Angel Yunes</b>. </div>
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Pentru sunet și atmosferă poți arunca un ochi mai jos. </div>
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Enjoy! We did.</div>
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0Mexico City, Federal District, Mexico19.4326077 -99.13320799999996818.9531097 -99.778654999999972 19.912105699999998 -98.487760999999963tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-8903543052671452772015-01-16T22:43:00.001-08:002015-01-17T06:08:08.615-08:00ziua 436, Ciudad de Mexico vechi<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">Orașul istoric chiar e bătrân, cu o poveste amestecată de azteci cu sânge și miere în ritualuri sacre încă de la 1325. Două sute de ani mai târziu, spaniolii înlocuiau mierea cu foc și începeau să ridice orașul vechi, așa cum este el azi. Dar au adus cu ei și arhitectura care te zăpăcește, aruncându-te intr-o ciudată și atemporală Europă. </span></div>
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Să nu mă întrebi de ce l-am simțit atât de al meu. Dar așa a fost. </div>
Poate din cauza vremii blânde care mi-a amintit că nu am mai trăit un aprilie românesc, cu adiere de <i>va fi bine, </i>de patru ani.<br />
Poate din cauza mirosului subtil al străzilor, nou și totuși știut.<br />
Poate din pricina cultului morților, omniprezentă amintire că nu trăiești de două ori.<br />
Sau poate au fost doar culorile.<br />
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Știu, ai să-mi spui că sunt dramatic. Dar așa e și orașul bătrân.<br />
<i>Doors I did not open, doors I did not close </i><br />
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<i><br /></i>ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0Mexico City, Federal District, Mexico19.4326077 -99.13320799999996818.9531097 -99.778654999999972 19.912105699999998 -98.487760999999963tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-64262760504837979782014-12-31T22:30:00.000-08:002015-01-21T19:58:37.707-08:00ziua 384, portrete din Hanoi<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Cu cele peste șapte milioane de locuitori, capitala Vietnamului este mult prea mare și diversă</div>
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pentru cele șapte zile pe care i le-am acordat. Sau cuvinte. Nu m-au șocat nici numărul nici diveristatea. M-a uimit însă căldura și deschiderea acestor oameni.<br />
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A fost locul în care am interacționat detașat cu cei mai mulți semeni pe minut pătrat din toată lumea asta. Și de asta am ales să-ți descriu Hanoi în portrete.<br />
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-74686368776247337412014-12-31T05:07:00.001-08:002014-12-31T05:15:38.354-08:00ziua 381, Ha Long Bay, paradisul pierdut<br />
Ha Long Bay trăiește la câteva ore de Hanoi, în Nordul Vietnamului. Cu cele aproape 2000 de insule care o împodobesc, este considerată una dintre cele 7 minuni naturale ale planetei. Și Unesco World Heritage Site. For whatever is that supposed to be stating.<br />
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Am petrecut două zile în mijlocul ei și am învățat ceva despre frumusețe. Frumusețea este ceea ce este doar dacă o lași să fie ceea ce a fost mereu.<br />
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Acolo am înțeles că simpla noastră prezență își avea aportul în pierderea unui paradis. Am luat cu noi un apus și un răsărit și am plecat mai bătrâni cu o viață.</div>
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Este momentul în care ar fi trebuit să-mi închei postarea. Să te las cu imaginea idilică a celei de-a șaptea minuni a lumii așa cum este ea. Și pe mine cu aura celui care a avut plăcerea să ți-o descopere prin frumoase imagini și să împrumute în ochii tăi un pic din măreția locului. Ba poate chiar să-ți nască un gând micuț de a da o fugă până acolo. </div>
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Dar NU vreau să ajungi și tu in Ha Long. </div>
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Cel puțin nu înainte de a-ți arăta și prețul pe care locul îl plătește zilnic pentru frumusețea sa.</div>
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Fotografii urâte și dezgustătoare, știu. Dar la fel de adevărate ca primele. </div>
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Făcute nopatea, când fiecare dintre vaporașele pitorești își varsă toate deșeurile de peste zi in mare. Făcute dimineața, când mare parte din gunoiul deversat încă gravitează in jurul ambarcațiunilor, ca o acuză surdă. </div>
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Pe unul dintre aceste vaporașe ești tu, iubitorul de frumos și aventură, venit să admire cea de-a șaptea minune a naturii.</div>
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În loc de post scriptum...Singura "murală" pe care am văzut-o in cei 1500 de kilometri pătrați ai golfului este executată cu penson și vopsea, aduse probabil special de pe uscat, in borcan. Și poartă, din păcate, marca țării de baștină a autorului.</div>
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Îmi pare rău dacă te las cu un gust amar. Îl știu. Cu el am plecat și noi.</div>
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0Hạ Long Bay, Vietnam20.9100512 107.1839023999999720.672619700000002 106.86117889999997 21.1474827 107.50662589999996tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-29239321977090377622014-12-24T16:00:00.000-08:002014-12-30T11:49:35.670-08:00ziua 375, Hue, acum<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam16.4498 107.562350116.3279725 107.4009886 16.571627499999998 107.7237116tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-85813206388482048172014-12-23T09:18:00.000-08:002014-12-30T11:49:08.629-08:00ziua 374, Hue, atunci<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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Situat tot în centrul Vietnamului, Hue a fost capitală până în 1945, atunci când Bao Dai, ultimul împărat al dinastiei Nguyen, abdică în fața comuniștilor. Mormintele lui și ale înaintașilor rămân, alături de palatul regal, unice mărturii ale acelor vremuri de glorie. </div>
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O fuziune între culturi, stiluri arhitectonice și continente. Locuri in care gothicul european se impletește cu tradiția chineză și trecutul glorios cu un prezent care cere o nouă postare. </div>
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam16.4498 107.562350116.3279725 107.4009886 16.571627499999998 107.7237116tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-68578111513110039912014-12-04T07:35:00.000-08:002014-12-04T07:43:13.162-08:00ziua 370, oamenii din Hoi An<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0ROzJyhQKleCxQ3b2DUXNDKhjuNK2oXUGNn8C2aW2CQ97K1NJOi-3krHi8rCw_aZM6vbOs8iOVojXiv3hJgjRJMl7FUwCX1iT87dAEjfeuKZWyYersxAGwkdX_oy0PDn6birQtoglT4/s1600/web+hoi+an+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0ROzJyhQKleCxQ3b2DUXNDKhjuNK2oXUGNn8C2aW2CQ97K1NJOi-3krHi8rCw_aZM6vbOs8iOVojXiv3hJgjRJMl7FUwCX1iT87dAEjfeuKZWyYersxAGwkdX_oy0PDn6birQtoglT4/s1600/web+hoi+an+01.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">mereu puși pe șotii</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRy6XtCrs8AAmFYpEgK3r4JzqlrKq4Tc5oNJAmTs4BQ9wZTit7TC0AQDmQeiNoX8eCkaPQinfM0bhlSYW1F3OGGzwUOeEyzYO4jOplAHYKfALz9k0Rt60suz8SJOEzIBFVRv1TlcX1MfA/s1600/web+hoi+an+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRy6XtCrs8AAmFYpEgK3r4JzqlrKq4Tc5oNJAmTs4BQ9wZTit7TC0AQDmQeiNoX8eCkaPQinfM0bhlSYW1F3OGGzwUOeEyzYO4jOplAHYKfALz9k0Rt60suz8SJOEzIBFVRv1TlcX1MfA/s1600/web+hoi+an+03.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">uniți în așezate comunități</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDSdc2T4c1E00uipm8cAFHgycraqNPMRFwd7SCBkJpLzSBO5kF75wRPq3UwNdkQIXZaOgzQBnd_dYOS257RuRkE7LmXDeGfcT_GTNg_u4iwvNJlqu3rspJ_COCczS7gfhAu5wMqP867U/s1600/web+hoi+an+minh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDSdc2T4c1E00uipm8cAFHgycraqNPMRFwd7SCBkJpLzSBO5kF75wRPq3UwNdkQIXZaOgzQBnd_dYOS257RuRkE7LmXDeGfcT_GTNg_u4iwvNJlqu3rspJ_COCczS7gfhAu5wMqP867U/s1600/web+hoi+an+minh.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">mândri de ceea ce fac</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMELwzbqV7zzmfYxlQKIp84vITT5bCWogHOzuqqUz8At15GjC3qzqChEhp7NYWespDNgHaX5KYDi4UxkdAjpj6uZskD6275e9M1ngwZAwl_CH_18hWW-l7dm0lP8WnB_8fcwls59RQbow/s1600/web+hoi+an+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMELwzbqV7zzmfYxlQKIp84vITT5bCWogHOzuqqUz8At15GjC3qzqChEhp7NYWespDNgHaX5KYDi4UxkdAjpj6uZskD6275e9M1ngwZAwl_CH_18hWW-l7dm0lP8WnB_8fcwls59RQbow/s1600/web+hoi+an+16.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">frumoși și adevărați</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZa073AOZ_qPW1tMy86uSmhFZ5m5EfAssYPcnkS9YmctLAnUFrmYt64aC6R7XSfMBoLcBiNevonMy0zD78vnivKWo8DzS6Unhvve4pihwArqBlVNhcslJ0Hautj0pmKe1R8kEe8zQsGck/s1600/web+hoi+an+32+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZa073AOZ_qPW1tMy86uSmhFZ5m5EfAssYPcnkS9YmctLAnUFrmYt64aC6R7XSfMBoLcBiNevonMy0zD78vnivKWo8DzS6Unhvve4pihwArqBlVNhcslJ0Hautj0pmKe1R8kEe8zQsGck/s1600/web+hoi+an+32+copy.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">împăcați cu ceea ce a trecut</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijTo8IYevaiXKaD_pEo6cPTwpJjo7WaCwQC-URGEAFf8i7hriSUFQ37jjNsTxh5n79UyD6JJ9YEV2WnEcBrIsE5tcWm04Hp1u1h84scmdMPwPbYmPSZdXEUfu6clZ9woGE1F_5ozJxumQ/s1600/web+hoi+an+30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijTo8IYevaiXKaD_pEo6cPTwpJjo7WaCwQC-URGEAFf8i7hriSUFQ37jjNsTxh5n79UyD6JJ9YEV2WnEcBrIsE5tcWm04Hp1u1h84scmdMPwPbYmPSZdXEUfu6clZ9woGE1F_5ozJxumQ/s1600/web+hoi+an+30.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">deschiși la ceea ce va urma</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAy10qV_I1IT2bNDGmBjDCfMW9hln8rEy9Qd_3qiXOpvwHgjgQMSQrKvIRuSSdAa5H2w87lRmlpen7Uh0EZcQe-j4La4mHsBkOjnMCYd4OKgIcO_GlX24kOkJSK8-AVEmdsQuLu9ibMdo/s1600/web+hoi+an+05+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAy10qV_I1IT2bNDGmBjDCfMW9hln8rEy9Qd_3qiXOpvwHgjgQMSQrKvIRuSSdAa5H2w87lRmlpen7Uh0EZcQe-j4La4mHsBkOjnMCYd4OKgIcO_GlX24kOkJSK8-AVEmdsQuLu9ibMdo/s1600/web+hoi+an+05+copy.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">și foarte angrenați în ceea ce fac</td></tr>
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...așa aveam să-i găsim pe oamenii vechii așezări, cei care dau de fapt adevărata culoare a Hoi An-ului care ne-a picat cu iremediabil tronc.</div>
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam15.8800584 108.338046915.6357444 108.0153234 16.1243724 108.66077039999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-90898384148847717002014-11-13T08:51:00.000-08:002014-11-13T09:27:38.486-08:00ziua 369, galben Hoi An<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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...când aveam să ne trezim intr-un orășel cu totul și cu totul galben, cu ziduri galbene, case galbene, fructe galbene și oameni...foarte de treabă! Un loc incredibil, uitat de timp dar nu și de trecerea lui, în care soarele își face treaba și căldura lui se reflectă în tot și-n toate. </div>
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Și unde, pentru ca povestea să fie completă și adevărată, mijloacele motorizate de locomoție sunt total interzise, prin lege.</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Singur, râul </span><i style="text-align: left;">Thu Bon</i><span style="text-align: left;">, sursă de supaviețuire și periodice inundații, aduce o pată de verde în peisaj...cu excepția zilelor însorite, în care oglindește cuminte clădirile din micul port</span><span style="text-align: left;"> :)</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Clar, Hoi An a fost dragoste la prima vedere, unul dintre acele locuri în care, deși conștientul te minte că nu ai fost niciodată, inima iți jură că nu ai plecat nicicând.</span></div>
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0Hoi An Ancient Town, Quang Nam Province, Vietnam15.8800584 108.338046915.6357444 108.0153234 16.1243724 108.66077039999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-76838606335189971222014-06-18T06:36:00.001-07:002014-06-18T06:40:27.640-07:00ziua 368, culorile nopții în Hoi An<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Conform obiceiului Imediat Durează am foit toată ziua - luându-ne rămas bun de la bunul Da Lat, respectiv încercând (cu succes) să prindem un avion - și am ajuns in Hoi An pe înserat. Dar am simțit de la primul apus și incă din afara orășelului că Unesco l-a declarat <i>World Heritage Site</i> cu un motiv. Adică:<br />
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În general și din experiență știu că nu e bine să judeci un oraș după felul in care îl vezi pentru prima dată in fapt de noapte. Este momentul în care o așezare străină ți se arată mai puțin prietenoasă și mai rezervată cunoscătorilor. Străzile sunt întortocheate fără rost, casele sunt toate la fel și pisicile, <i>bien sur</i>, toate negre. Tu ești mai turist decât ai fi pe vreme de zi și ai tendința să nu pricepi nimic, în cel mai evident mod cu putință. Ei bine, Hoi An a făcut o mare excepție de la regulă, lăsându-ne cu respirația mică din prima secundă.</div>
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Și în ciuda exploziei de culoare nocturnă, a<i> vibe</i>-ului fantastic și a felului aproape mistic in care i-am simțit pe localnici, nimic nu ne-a putut pregăti pentru ceea ce aveam să descoperim in lumina zilei următoare...ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-88203050500734746382014-05-12T21:59:00.000-07:002014-05-14T07:58:23.481-07:00ziua 365, in trei ani cât alții într-unul<div id="fb-root">
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Am împlinit așadar 365 de zile de...nu știu cum să îi spun.<br />
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Dacă nu aș fi lucrat s-ar fi numit <i>libertate</i>. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Dacă nu m-aș fi simțit acasă i-aș fi spus <i>pribegie. </i><o:p></o:p></div>
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Dacă nu mi-aș fi asumat locuri i-aș fi spus <i>vacanță.</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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Dacă nu mi-ar fi devenit dragă și România i-aș spune <i>să nu te mai văd în viața asta!</i> (dar cum nu sunt 100% sigur de treaba cu reîncarnarea chiar mi-ar părea rău să nu mai trăiesc și într-o țara care, la mintea mea, este un loc extraordinar de vizitat!)<o:p></o:p></div>
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În condițiile date însă, cred că am să le spun 365 de zile de <i>altfel</i>. Sunt, de fapt, suma momentelor pe care le-am petrecut departe de Europa în ultimii 3 ani...Și-am plecat!</div>
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Temerari precum <a href="http://sufletpentruhrana.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Elena</a> și <a href="http://www.tedoo.ro/" target="_blank">Brăduț</a>, <a href="http://claudiamelcaru.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Claudia</a>, Narcisa si Mădălina, Lia, <a href="http://hennajourney.weebly.com/" target="_blank">Laura </a>și <a href="http://treispre10.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Alex</a> (ca să mă limitez doar la cetățenia română) rezolvă problema într-un an.<br />
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Jochen (un neamț superb care în fiecare an este "busy with himself" pentru 6 luni) Yannika (St.Petersburg/Koh Phangan) Gail (englezoaica pasionată de plaje și pisici) sau Mark (a cărui existență se împarte dramatic între pescuit în Alaska și mâncat peștele în Thailanda) au nevoie de aproximativ doi ani pentru a bifa aceeași sumă în calendar. </div>
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Noi am avut nevoie de trei și exemplele pot continua la nesfârșit. Până la oamenii care nu au nevoie de mai mult de 10 zile de <i>altfel</i> pe an, și pe care îi invidiez sincer de fiecare dată cand nu mai știu exact unde-i "acasă". Avem cu toții nevoie de <i>altfel</i>, ca să-l putem aprecia pe <i>astfel</i>.</div>
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<b>Ce-am avut și ce-am pierdut?<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b> </b>Frate, aveam totul! Familia, providența, capul și perseverența mi-au pus în desagă exact ce-mi lipsea. Și casă și business și mașină și home cinema foarte tare...Fight Club la următorul nivel! <o:p></o:p></div>
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Ce-mi lipsea? Mai nimic. Ar fi mers a doua casă, al treilea business și un Mercedes. Nu sunt superficial, dar sisteme audio am deja un pic mai multe decât camere. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Ce-am aflat dincoace? Ei bine, asta este o treabă pe care pe bune o aflu în fiecare zi și mi-este atât de greu să trag o concluzie finală cum nu m-aș fi așteptat vreodată. Motiv pentru care și pun filmul pe pauză, acum când se împlinește anul, ca să fac o scurtă recapitulare. În speranța că voi mai învăța ceva.<o:p></o:p></div>
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De pierdut, am pierdut tot ce se întâmpla acasă între timp. Lucrurile par să nu se miște când ești în mijlocul lor, dar dacă te pui în paranteză câteva luni poți trage foarte clar niște concluzii la întoarcere. În mod surprinzător, se pare că Pământul se învârte și viața se întâmplă și în absența mea. <i>Goddamnit!</i> Lunile departe de casă îmi împart clienții în oameni deschiși la cap și ochi și români care abia așteptau o ocazie să întârzie cu plățile sau să nu le mai facă deloc. Îmi sortează prietenii în oameni cărora le pasă (trebuie să cunoști și tu genul ăla de prieten cu care nu trebuie să-ți scrii săptămânal pentru a ști că se gândește la tine) și oameni care pot bea și în absența mea. Îmi scindează trăirile în înnăscute și educate. Îmi arată că am o familie care chiar mă iubește, deși nu mă aprobă mereu. Îmi demonstrează că barba îl schimbă pe Sebi dar nimic nu-l poate scoate pe Lulu din ale lui. Acasă în România am prostul obicei de a trece cu vederea toate chestiile astea. Mi-e greu să spun dacă le-am câștigat sau pierdut.<br />
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<b> </b>Business-ul, casa și mașina au rămas în continuare, dar abia aspectul ăsta (și nu biletele de avion!) presupune cele mai mari eforturi. Dar este posibil, ca absolut orice altceva pe lumea asta. Adevăr adevărat pe care aveam să mi-l demonstrez, verific și simt încă de la prima plecare. Trebuie doar să-ți dorești ca să primești, trebuie doar să ceri ca să ți se dea. Asta am dobândit, dar nu pe degeaba, a trebuit să stau de vorba cu oamenii din jurul meu. Dar toate schimburile de experiențe și povești s-au conturat într-un alt mare câștig. Pentru că oamenii sunt precum cărțile și, departe de locul de baștină, au tendința de a se și deschide asemeni lor.</div>
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E tare ciudat felul în care îi întâlnești în astfel de peregrinări. Dar cu siguranță nu și întâmplător. În general, te trezești în grupuri de oameni asemeni ție, din cele mai importante puncte de vedere. Oameni care sunt acolo pentru că așa au ales, la fel ca tine. În funcție de timpul pe care îl acorzi unui loc, te poți încadra într-una dintre categoriile<i>: în trecere, în concediu, în concediu prelungit, revin imediat</i> și <i>expați</i>. Categorii înșirate de la travel și până la living, diferență pe care până și Discovery a simțit nevoia să o facă. De ce acorzi mai mult din timpul tău conjuncturii respective, de ce vei cunoaște mai mulți oameni din același film. Motiv pentru care în general veteranii stau cu veteranii și trecătorii cu ai lor, caste separate. </div>
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Am trecut în fiecare an dintr-o categorie în cealaltă, în funcție de zonele pe care le vizitam, buget, vreme...ca tot omul! Avem și noi, de acum, vreo două locuri despre care ne dăm cu părerea dar nu ratez, în continuare, nici o ocazie să mă sfătui cu <i>conaisseurii</i>. Mai ales cu români ca mine, născuți cârcotași.<br />
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În primele 365 de zile am gustat pe îndelete 4 țări, niște zeci de insule, niște sute de oameni și 47 de paturi, numărate de curând. Bașca vreo 200 apusuri, o adevărată religie pe unele insule. Thailanda a rămas mereu baza, locul din care venim și plecăm, locul în care vindecăm orice rană dobândită pe traseu și unde am petrecut aproape zece luni din primele doisprezece. Spațiu cu care am rezonat și care ne-au făcut să uităm că avem totuși o viză. Vietnamul este spectaculos, Bali-ul mistic, Cambodia șocantă...Thailanda rămâne <i>amazing</i>.<br />
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<b>Man, uită Thailanda! Nu mai este ce a fost!<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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-...e gata, e pa!<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Dude, nu te alinta, uită-te la noi cum o ardem, eu zic că e bine...<o:p></o:p></div>
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Stăm tolăniți într-o sunsetărie, așa cum am botezat locurile care au apusul în meniu. Apusurile sunt foarte importante. Ne amintesc că Pământul e rotund și de asta, oricât ai încerca să scrutezi drumul ce ți se așterne în față, nu ai cum să vezi prea departe. Soarele tocmai a terminat de scufundat lăsând cerul roșu-albastru-portocaliu în urmă, oceanul se leagănă extrem de lenes la 20 de metri de masa noastră, căldura de peste zi a lăsat locul brizei și noi mai comandăm un rând de beri. </div>
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Mai sunt doar 2 mese ocupate, cu tineri veniti probabil pentru Full Moon, ce se zbat între leneveală și lemneveală, că-s două stări diferite. </div>
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- Nu, man, nu mai e bine, uite la bețivanii ăștia...Păi când am venit eu prima data pe insulă, nu vedeai din ăștia, era numai lume cool, oameni mișto...<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Bine, așa e în Haad Rin...nu știu ce înțelegi tu prin oameni mișto, dar îi găsești și aici dacă-ți acorzi timp...Vin toate animalele la Full Moon, dar și când pleacă...<i>Sabai</i> total!<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Sabai și-amar de capul lor! Man nu despre asta e vorba...pe atunci se asculta muzică bună, totul era underground, erau wine bars...nu-ți vindea nimeni whisky la găleată, uită-te la ei ce fețe au! Te mai miri că-ți pun bucătarii ketchup în pad thai...ăștia i-au stricat, generația KFC!</div>
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- Știu, bro...dar underground-ul de ieri este mainstream-ul de mâine, că de asta construiesc ăștia aeroport...parcă altundeva unde zici tu că e mai bine de stat?<o:p></o:p></div>
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- În Bangkok, logic...ai lume civilizată, educată, ai restaurante șmechere, ai cluburi private...<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Mda, și câte trei trenuri care-ți trec pe deasupra capului simultan, un catraliard de scutere, nu-mi place, e prea mare agitație, prea mulți turiști și acolo....și e cam scump ca să stai două luni, nu crezi?<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Păi da, acum s-a scumpit, când veneam eu acum opt ani n-ai idee cât de ieftină era viața...și era super-calitatate totul, n-ai înțeles!<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Mie cred că în Chiang Mai mi-ar plăcea să mai stau o perioadă. Acolo ai și cultură și istorie, prețuri bune, ai vibe-ul ăla intelectual, <i>the proud Lanna people</i>, munții aia-s frumoși de-ngheti și mâncarea...man, ce mâncare! Tu ai descoperit restaurantul burmez de lângă orașul vechi?<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Da, man, l-am găsit. E foarte tare orașul ăla cu totul dar...nu-i la mare! Mie îmi place când bat atâta drum să mă bucur de o plajă, de o baie...Mai degrabă aș sta în Phuket...<o:p></o:p></div>
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- In demența aia? Sodoma și Gomora Reloaded? Toate petrecerile, tot zgomotul, toate stricatele și toți roboții?..<br />
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- Nuuuuu man, în Phuket Old Town, n-are nici o legătură cu Patong... Și acolo ai de toate, trei bucătarii diferite, mixul de creștini cu buddhisti și musulmani, arhitectura e wow, lumea drăguță și turiștii puțini. Și dacă vrei ai și plajă la 20 de kilometri în orice direcție. <o:p></o:p></div>
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- Așa mai bine stau în Krabi! Mamă, cât e de frumoasă zona aia, cum e să inoti așa pe sub stânci...ai și mare, ai și munte...<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Nțț, nu stai tu două luni în nici un Krabi că s-a scumpit de n-ai înțeles! Când ai fost ultima dată?</div>
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- Acum vreo 4 ani....<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Uită, s-a schimbat totul...vezi meniuri în rusește, thailandezul îți răspunde cu <i>zdrazvite</i> la <i>sawasdee</i>...au crescut și niște resorturi foarte tari la pachet, ce-i drept...dar parcă prea s-a civilizat! Din punctul ăsta de vedere mai degrabă stau în Sukhotai...</div>
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- Man, ce vorbești, în Sukhotai eu nu am reușit să găsesc al doilea restaurant...bine, a compensat cu ruinele lui, m-am foit 3 zile și nu cred că am văzut tot...dar în rest e prea liniște! Mai cu viață, mai cu acțiune...uite, Samui...<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Mamaia total. Acum 7 ani era grav de tot, în primul club în care am pasit mixa ăla de la Prodigy! Acum...<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Koh Tao?<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Koh Tao, acolo e plin de oameni care ziua se fac scafandri și noaptea se fac morți, n-ai cu cine să te înțelegi, aia-s în lumea lor de diveri...<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Koh Phi Phi?<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Prea comercială. Ruși bogați.<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Koh Chang?<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Prea sălbatică. Ruși săraci.<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Nu, man, am cunoscut o gramada de ruși chiar foarte ok. De ce întrebi?<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Nțț, dar în Nord...în Pai? Mie mi-a plăcut. Citeam la unu`pe blog că... </div>
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- Ce treabă are Pai? Ăla e marfă, e sublim, e Bali...dar e plin de hipsteri, dude! Acum șase ani erau oameni interesanți, pe yoga, pe treaba lor...Bro, știi cum săreau femeile pe tine?..<o:p></o:p></div>
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- Mda, aiurea, nu prea ai opțiuni...dar nu știu cum se face că tot aici ne intâlnim, an de an...Another beer please! What? Yes, Singha!<br />
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- And a Leo! What? You don`t have Leo? Ce-ți spuneam, man, nu mai este cum era...Singha is ok, give me one Singha. And half a lime! Yes, <i>manao</i>, half a <i>manao,</i> ceapa mă-sii...<o:p></o:p></div>
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Povestim apoi, previzibil, despre alte și alte locuri <i>pa</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ai mei, să le de Dumnezeu sănătate, m-au crescut, cu pește și răbdare, câte o lună pe an, în Delta Dunării. Alte vremuri, alte obiceiuri. In continuare nu înțeleg cum de nu-mi pricep afinitățile pentru plaje pustii. Nu prea apreciam eu pustiul la vremea aia, știam că văr-miu merge la Mamaia, unde cică se găsea Pepsi pe toate drumurile. S-a schimbat și Delta noastră între timp, nici aia nu mai e ce-a fost. Păi când eram eu mic, oamenii de acolo aveau curent electric câte 4 ore pe zi. Acum doi ani îmi cânta Gojira la 4 dimineața! Plus Pepsi. E ok și Gojira cu Pepsi...dar iar nu despre asta e vorba. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Vama Veche?! Adio! S-a zbătut în agonie sub ochii mei. Am cunoscut-o pe vremea în care prietenul meu (nu dau nume, dragă Mulder) putea să stea la rând la gogoși ziua-n amiaza mare îmbrăcat cu un tricou. Și nimic altceva! Acum?! Vin mii de copii corporatiști cu eșarfele lor, în team building (sau destroying, după caz) în fiecare week-end și poartă aceleași discuții <i>cool </i>la nesfârșit, până le răsare soarele...Pe timp de zi?...Saturn, frate! O grămadă de bunici cu nepoți pe plajă...de unde-or mai fi apărut și ăștia?! S-a desființat Mangalia? Abia atunci mi-a picat și mie fisa. Dacă eram un cetățean responsabil, aș fi avut și eu vreo doi copii până la vârsta asta. Și dacă veneam în Vamă, logic că-i luam și pe ei. Și clar că o luam și pe mama, să le distragă puțin atenția, până îmi revin cât să-i pot număra. </div>
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Nu locurile se schimbă. Noi ne schimbăm. Și apoi le schimbăm și pe ele. Și eu eram mai frumos prima data când m-am îndrăgostit de Vamă...Dar locurile din care vii și pleci de prea multe ori îți devin enervante oglinzi ale trecerii. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpP6n1ElqLpgoFvUM9O_QQF0lXwvZXjWbWtAbJbU61aEBzqzkDpIwJtBVIAOZfdNEUi8LURSDEOwz6QTvPMrerUcUE62j2UnVWqd0G6g8iTmvk2SrO2eO1t2VoVV1V-4N2rWkbQ6S_SI/s1600/web+kpg+05b.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpP6n1ElqLpgoFvUM9O_QQF0lXwvZXjWbWtAbJbU61aEBzqzkDpIwJtBVIAOZfdNEUi8LURSDEOwz6QTvPMrerUcUE62j2UnVWqd0G6g8iTmvk2SrO2eO1t2VoVV1V-4N2rWkbQ6S_SI/s1600/web+kpg+05b.png" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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Este drept și corect ca noi să ne schimbăm, de la an la an: mai buni, mai inteligenți, mai experimentați, mai puternici. Locurile în care venim, cei dragi și concurența ar trebui să stea însă pe loc. Și să ne aștepte așa cum i-am lăsat. Totul însă curge, și noi odată cu totul. Unii dintre noi însă curg pe râu agățați de vreo doi bușteni. Subsemnatul nu face excepție. </div>
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<b>Teoria musafirului poftit<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Ce ne facem cu ei bușteni dar atunci? E simplu: ii punem in paranteză. Am observat asta în a doua escapadă cu adevărat departe de casă. Teoria musafirului. Iată: mă lipisem eu la un <i>foot massage,</i> aveam în stânga alt client, cred că englez, și cele două maseuze nu mai isprăveau de ciripit în thai. Dacă rămâneam cu ochii închiși juram că-s într-un episod din South Park, au femeile astea niște înalte...dar am deschis ochii la și am dedus din context că despre noi, clienții, vorbeau. Arătau cu capul când spre vecinul meu când spre mine și-i dădeau înainte..."Mamă, dacă aș înțelege despre ce e vorba..." </div>
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Am plecat din salon hotărât să-mi sacrific ceva timp și să mă înscriu la cursuri de thailandeză. Păi dacă ne bârfeau? Nu e bine să știi ce spune lumea în jurul tău? Nu, nu e bine! Atâta diferență mai rămâne între Vama Veche și Koh Phangan...cu turcoazul și ananasul te obișnuiești instant, de parcă ți s-au cuvenit de când lupul-cățel.Și am realizat, slavă Domnului, în timp util treaba asta. Într-o țară în care îți este străin limbajul oamenilor străin ești și tu. Trec o mie de chestii pe lângă tine, de la vorbe la reclame, și tu prin ele precum gâsca prin apă! Și e bine așa? Bă, e bine!<br />
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Ce, crezi că nu-s maneliști în Thailanda? Ba da, sunt o grămadă! Ce faci când trece un X5 pe lângă tine în România și din el se aude <i>Aoleu, dușmanii mei</i>...? Te iau toți dracii...În Thailanda, m-am surprins râzând : "Mamă, uite câte beculețe și-a pus ăla în Lexus!" Crezi că nu au defrișat o bucată din junglă ca să facă aeroport pe Phangan? Ba da, au tăiat palmierii. Crezi că am suferit ca atunci când primarul a tăiat teii din orașul meu natal? Nici gând! Ba chiar mi-am asumat, Zen, faptul că însăși prezența mea acolo își are aportul ei în statisticile ce au dictat necesitatea construcției. Dar nu am pus la suflet.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Pentru că aici nu este maneua mea, nu este orașul meu, nu sunt teii mei, nu e primarul meu. Sunt ale lor. Avem tendința să ne asumăm locuri și lucruri și oameni atunci când luăm viața prea în serios. Ce le face ale noastre? Habar n-am, poate faptul că ne-am născut acolo. De asta se bate lumea când pierde echipa locală de fotbal...dacă te nășteai la Craiova nu mai sângerai când a pierdut FC Vaslui, dar așa... Spre deosebire, în locurile în care creierul știe că ești în trecere, lași să curgă mult mai ușor și cele observate și cele neștiute...Ori asta cred eu că este o atitudine de viata mai adevărată decât necazul pe primar. Pentru că noi, ființele vii, suntem în trecere pe lumea asta, musafiri. Venim, scânteiem câteva clipe, apoi ne întoarcem tăcuți de unde am venit. În cel mai fericit caz te mai pomenesc alte câteva clipe generațiile care-ți urmează, dacă asta te face să te simți mai bine. Cine a descoperit, prietene, Penicilina care deja ți-a salvat viața de atâtea ori? Cine a proiectat Angkhor Wat? Cine a inventat trenul? Vezi?</div>
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I-am uitat, dacă i-am știut vreodată.Alți musafiri, asemeni ție...Au fost, au stat, au plecat. <o:p></o:p> </div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bineînțeles că nu e bine să lași noroi la plecare pe mocheta gazdei! Dar nici să te dai cu capul de pereți de necaz că n-are tapet ca al tău! De atunci nu am mai râs de povestea Roxanei care, întrebată acum mulți ani ce vrea să se facă când are să fie mare, a răspuns, franc, "musafir". Știu ei copiii ce știu! Și nu, nici thai nu am mai vrut să învăț.<br />
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Am trăit și am revenit în continuare precum Alice în Țara Minunilor, răspunzând zâmbetului cu zâmbet, lui <i>Sabaidi mai?</i> cu <i>Sabaidi!</i> și plajelor cu sufletul deschis precum ele oceanului. Mulțumind mereu gazdelor de tratație și sperând ca, la momentul potrivit, să am puterea să plec și din viață frumos, cu același zâmbet împăcat. </div>
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Sunt lucruri pe care le-am învățat aici, pe insula mea.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Insula mea! </i>Poftim cultură! Așa stabilisem? Da`ce, a făcut-o tata ca să fie a mea? Oi fi câștigat-o la loto? E photoshop, ca s-o semnez <i>argo</i>? Nu, chiar deloc. E un loc frumos din care nu înțeleg decât ce vreau eu, din care-mi iau ce-mi lipsește și pe care nu trebuie să-l percep altfel, pentru că mi-l stric. Am văzut ce am ales să văd și m-am înconjurat cu oameni care aveau în comun cu mine faptul că aleseseră fix aceeași insulă, în același moment și deplinătatea facultăților mentale. Sau pe aproape.</div>
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Dacă mă mai întorc la anul? Probabil că am să revin, până în clipa în care nu am să mă mai simt acasă nici aici. Apoi? Thailanda mai are încă 1449 de insule disponibile.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dacă am aflat ceva în primele 365 de apusuri...am înțeles că existența noastră pe planetă are toate atributele unui vis. Trece repede, nu îl dirijezi din partea conștientă a creierului tău și ai tendința să ți-l explici abia după ce s-a terminat. Un vis pe care îl trăim fiecare, în fiecare secundă. Un vis incredibil, in ciuda faptului că e colorat după dorințele noastre cele mai ascunse. După gândurile ale căror semințe, odată aruncate, cresc mereu, în <i>realități</i> puternice. Trebuie doar să crezi în ele și vor rodi, fie în fructe otrăvitoare fie în cele mai hrănitoare și apetisante forme și arome. În funcție de semințele din care au crescut. În timp, înveți să faci diferența între ele și te poți limita la cele care-ți fac bine. Nu uita însă niciodată să le ingrijești și să le uzi, chiar dacă fântâna este departe!</div>
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Așa e, nici un loc de pe lumea asta nu mai este cum a fost ieri. Toate sunt așa cum sunt azi. Și te așteaptă toate, cuminți, pe tavă.<br />
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<span style="color: #565656; font-family: 'Noto Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22.5px;">Articol înscris în concursul <Thailanda, te iubesc!>, organizat de </span><a href="http://www.klm.com/home/ro/en" style="-webkit-transition: color 0.2s linear; border: 0px; color: #527492; font-family: 'Noto Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22.5px; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; transition: color 0.2s linear; vertical-align: baseline;">KLM România</a><span style="color: #565656; font-family: 'Noto Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22.5px;"> în colaborare cu </span><a href="http://ro.tourismthailand.org/home" style="-webkit-transition: color 0.2s linear; border: 0px; color: #527492; font-family: 'Noto Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22.5px; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; transition: color 0.2s linear; vertical-align: baseline;">T.A.T. Balkans</a><span style="color: #565656; font-family: 'Noto Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22.5px;"> și </span><a href="http://www.tedoo.ro/concurs-blogging-vacanta-thailanda/" style="-webkit-transition: color 0.2s linear; border: 0px; color: #527492; font-family: 'Noto Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22.5px; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; transition: color 0.2s linear; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Tedoo.ro</a></div>
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-69205129622838380812014-05-03T00:10:00.000-07:002014-05-03T00:57:41.531-07:00ziua 364, Da Lat, Crazy House<div style="text-align: center;">
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Opera viziunii extraordinare a arhitectei Dong Viet Nga, Crazy House este considerată una dintre cele mai ciudate 10 construcții din lume și un <i>must see</i> în Da Lat. Despre rivalul asiatic al lui Gaudi sau Tim Burton poți citi mai multe <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%E1%BA%B1ng_Nga_Guesthouse" target="_blank">aici</a>. </div>
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Noi am ales să ne petrecem cea de-a 364-a noapte de pribegie în locul ăsta pentru că am găsit incredibil de multe similitudini cu povestea noastră, cu viața împărțită între două continente. Și pentru că este cel mai excentric loc în care te poți trezi în Da Lat în dimineața în care sărbătorești un an de <i>Imediat Durează</i>. Bineînțeles că mi-am adunat între timp gândurile și concluziile primului an trăit altfel, dar am să le acord o postare separată. Aici am să-mi pemit doar să punctez ce au în comun două povești ce par a fi prea frumoase pentru a fi adevărate. Dar nu-s. People just call them crazy. </div>
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Să le luăm pe rând, sunt multe...pentru început, vorba cântecului: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjukaOedPEx47h4wEHyC74GvqlU8xyklCzpSCH8hELLLBBJPGLd835n1hWnUk3TKICL6kRkwZCHziru8RQcX0QqqtaTUTXdz5DWMhnnYHi4inYJU6vXVtzlU9-4RPW8DBNhkOkBxfJ43cg/s1600/web+ch+07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjukaOedPEx47h4wEHyC74GvqlU8xyklCzpSCH8hELLLBBJPGLd835n1hWnUk3TKICL6kRkwZCHziru8RQcX0QqqtaTUTXdz5DWMhnnYHi4inYJU6vXVtzlU9-4RPW8DBNhkOkBxfJ43cg/s1600/web+ch+07.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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<i>"All it takes is one decision</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRUnTOSXVNIAIuYIb4Vip1SwIF0x4Z3Q0nswPDfvHZUYw5SWvvddyod0ADEcYDg1X_bPdWgu8WWPDAuTImXPTEVFskxIgHumv2fQ2zpV3QKtnOLwFAdxJyWkEe3X17MZBQwFHqtDLOR0g/s1600/web+ch+08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRUnTOSXVNIAIuYIb4Vip1SwIF0x4Z3Q0nswPDfvHZUYw5SWvvddyod0ADEcYDg1X_bPdWgu8WWPDAuTImXPTEVFskxIgHumv2fQ2zpV3QKtnOLwFAdxJyWkEe3X17MZBQwFHqtDLOR0g/s1600/web+ch+08.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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<i>A lot of guts</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHCTHXy-U7d3b29e7nNCrr0N5mr6znyAi1fcCXzyObGKwzFNeKvJArGSgD4frTYxNFmzYDcYLm04p5PVkRnOxHxXRA4aw6M5voszzoKV1H2hmX15ELd4J_HsgUmjwCkL3rDGLgyaNcnrw/s1600/web+ch+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHCTHXy-U7d3b29e7nNCrr0N5mr6znyAi1fcCXzyObGKwzFNeKvJArGSgD4frTYxNFmzYDcYLm04p5PVkRnOxHxXRA4aw6M5voszzoKV1H2hmX15ELd4J_HsgUmjwCkL3rDGLgyaNcnrw/s1600/web+ch+10.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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<i>a little vision... "</i></div>
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Au urmat apoi o grămadă de research și o mulțime de schițe și planuri ce par a fi desprinse dintr-un cu totul alt film și, ca atare, irealizabile. Greșit, orice este posibil. La limita dintre fantezie și realitate și fără nici o legătură cu socoteala din târg, a trebuit să le facem oricum. Trebuie totuși să crezi în ceva, nu?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixVPd3c-ORf5HexeoxtM1yf3WrpF572ZtUm96YODKE8EUvz6ojmzT8vgi-nIQE613o-3wu7u6k8vMCQ8YbkXCBARssTUO3SsjsECdm-YU5nF2Gl8h0cA5MUwW6MRkwKtf-dOGPRFAGCfc/s1600/web+ch+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixVPd3c-ORf5HexeoxtM1yf3WrpF572ZtUm96YODKE8EUvz6ojmzT8vgi-nIQE613o-3wu7u6k8vMCQ8YbkXCBARssTUO3SsjsECdm-YU5nF2Gl8h0cA5MUwW6MRkwKtf-dOGPRFAGCfc/s1600/web+ch+13.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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După care am fost liberi să ne facem bagajele și să ne părăsim temporar superba colivie din România. </div>
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Aveau apoi să ni se deschidă porți și ochi largi de tot catre o lume pe care o știam din poze si povestiri dar pe care nu o trăisem.</div>
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O lume nou-nouță despre care încă mă mai întreb, turisticește, 364 de zile mai târziu..."WTF?!" </div>
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Am mai spus-o și am s-o repet, Asia de SE nu este o altă planetă, este tot aici, aproape, la o zvârlitură de avion. Dar este un loc care mi-a sfidat toate credințele și mi-a provocat toate cunoștințele dobândite cu eforturi și strădanie în Europa. Poate clima, poate geologia, poate istoria au dictat oamenilor de aici să funcționeze după reguli atât de diferite față de ale noastre încât am început să mă îndoiesc de o mulțime de adevăruri absolute și reguli bătute în cuie în mai bine de 30 de ani. </div>
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Aveam, de fapt, să descoperim toate avantajele pe care le ai atunci când îți spargi naibii odată zona aia de comfort. Și bineînțeles că asta nu înseamnă neapărat să pleci câteva luni în Asia. Dacă ești inspirat și atent nici nu trebuie să pleci undeva. Esențial este să refuzi acele reguli ale jocului despre care știi că te fac nefericit sau, după cum spuneam și în <a href="http://www.tedoo.ro/an-sabatic-thailanda-indonezia-bali/" target="_blank">altă ocazie,</a> plictisit. Să încerci viața și altfel. Nu ai două. </div>
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Avantajul singurei existențe pe care o ai este că-i plină de posibilități și tu, numai tu, ii poți schimba scenariul în fiecare minut. Nimeni nu spune că drumul cel drept nu are stângi și drepte. </div>
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<i>Nu există reguli</i>, și asta este prima si una dintre cele mai importante...reguli pe care le-am învățat. Planurile sunt făcute ca să-ți dea curaj pentru primul pas. Dacă ai noroc, tot ce va urma va răsturna tot ce ai planificat. </div>
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Dă-i timp așadar, pentru că altceva oricum nu ai ce să-i dai la schimb, și ai să vezi cum totul din acest minunat vis ține exclusiv de punctul tău de vedere. Chiar și cele mai înspăimântătoare sau ciudate lucruri pot fi absolut fantastice, puse în lumina potrivită. </div>
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Și apoi, viziunea de ansamblu pe care o poți căpăta când ajungi în punctul dorit este cu adevărat neprețuită...dar te face să-ți dorești un alt punct, ca de fiecare dată, și o iei de la capăt. Șmecheria este să zâmbești între timp. Nu ai de unde să cazi dacă nu ai urcat in prealabil. <i>C`est la vie!</i></div>
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Am ales, dintre cele 10 opțiuni disponibile, una dintre cele mai ciudate camere din ciudata casă. <i>Beautiful-strange</i> precum toate cele 364 de zile de până atunci. </div>
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M-am tolănit sub iluminatorul care ne transformă vizuina, pe timp de noapte, în "a million star hotel", am privit cerul imens, m-am gândit recunoscător la toate cele de mai sus și am adormit cu zâmbetul pe buze, făcând, ca deobicei, planuri pentru felul extraordinar în care urma să ne petrecem ziua ce marca un an de <i>altfel</i>. </div>
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Ca să-mi confirme și întărească regula, zorii zilei au venit cu cea mai zdravănă toxiinfecție alimentară de care am avut parte. În viața asta. </div>
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com7Da Lat, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam11.94542 108.44210099999998-38.635188 25.82491349999998 62.526028 -168.94071150000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-55840192071703362632014-03-15T21:04:00.000-07:002015-01-21T20:02:55.281-08:00ziua 360, e lung pamantul, ba-i Da Lat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Da Lat este o exceptie a Vietnamului, din aproape toate punctele de vedere. N<span style="text-align: center;">ici in Nord dar nici prea in Sud, nici rece nici cald, nici ploios si nici uscat. Temperatura blocata la un perfect 24 de grade pe timp de zi, primavara nu pare sa aibe nici cap nici coada si peisajele montane ireale il fac destinatia de vacanta favorita a vietnamezilor, care-l considera orasul lunii de miere.</span></div>
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Miere nu am vazut, dar am mancat in nestire gem, pentru ca in zona se fac cele mai bune capsuni pe care le-am gustat vreodata. Se mai produce si cel mai cunoscut vin din tara, o cafea absolut incredibila (celebra <a href="http://www.economist.com/blogs/prospero/2012/01/coffee-vietnam" target="_blank">civet coffee</a> inclusiv) si ceva hectare de flori. Suficiente motive pentru care francezii, atunci cand au avut cum, il declarasera atat de stat in stat incat bietii localnici aveau nevoie de un permis special pentru a-si face treaba in zona. Sincer, si noua ne-a cam cazut cu tronc.</div>
<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0Dà Lat, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam11.94542 108.4421009999999810.9302165 107.15120749999998 12.9606235 109.73299449999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-30486355834219435102014-03-12T11:20:00.000-07:002014-03-20T11:28:12.562-07:00ziua 358, Mekong Delta, locul in care totul curge mai vizibil<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Ming ne-a fost luntras si ghid tacut in lumea de dincolo</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">In Ben Tre, un satuc uitat intre ape ( dar nu numai acolo) vietnamezii obisnuiesc sa-si igroape mortii in apropierea casei. Poate si datorita faptului ca ii viziteaza mult mai des decat obisnuim noi. Micuta Phuong a murit la 8 ani, dar cred ca ii este mai bine in locul in care se juca candva, langa familie, decat intr-un cimitir. Oricum ar fi, am realizat din nou ca un mormant iti poate spune mai multe si despre viata de aici si despre cea de dincolo decat un preot.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Un grup de femei din satucul My Tho in drum spre o nunta, imbracate de sarbatoare. Le-am surprins trecand din barca in barca, intr-un echilibru precar, cu bucuria si emotiile de rigoare</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Zambitor, un w<i>ater buffalo</i> care le-a vazut pe toate de o mie de ori, a lasat totul sa curga</td></tr>
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0My Tho, Tien Giang, Vietnam10.35428 106.366798000000026.3341729999999989 101.20322400000002 14.374386999999999 111.53037200000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-77865296529641898642014-03-10T20:36:00.000-07:002014-03-10T21:36:47.444-07:00ziua 356, Saigon, intre 10 milioane de locuitori<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Am atacat Republica Socialistă Viet Nam dinspre Sud spre Nord și, după o călătorie de 6 ore cu autobuzul dinspre Phnom Penh (și un control vamal mai degrabă antipatic decât riguros) ne-am trezit în Ho Chi Minh, fost Saigon, fostă capitală oficială a Sudului și în continuare inima economică a țării. Prinsă la mijloc între Occident și Orient, capitalism și comunism, tradițional și modern, metropola ține împreună 10.000.000 de locuitori și cel puțin tot atâtea povești. Am încercat să le luăm pe rând și am fost întâmpinați de un popor cald și relaxat, care încă se apropie cu respect și curiozitate de turiști, mai ales în zonele mai rar călcate de aceștia din urmă. </div>
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Se simte încă perioada în care Vietnamul a fost colonie franceză, se simt anii în care americanii și-au testat armele chimice, se simt eforturile <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ho_Chi_Minh" target="_blank">unchiului Ho</a> de a construi un comunism zdravăn dar se simte și secolul în care trăim. Sincer, mă așteptam la o Românie a epocii de aur. Dar aveam să găsesc cu totul și cu totul altceva. Singuri, <a href="http://ninulescu.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/mockoysterstep1.jpg?w=600" target="_blank">"creveții" vietnamezi</a> fac legătura între cele două povești... </div>
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ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com0Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam10.8230989 106.62966389.8248079 105.33877030000001 11.8213899 107.9205573tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4787086473016522287.post-84552312656176485522014-03-09T10:24:00.001-07:002014-03-09T11:29:46.318-07:00ziua 355, Saigon, intre ieri si maine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />ioan danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16511095059512010146noreply@blogger.com2Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam10.8230989 106.62966389.8248079 105.33877030000001 11.8213899 107.9205573